"Coco Chanel, Paris"

gelatin silver print

signed, titled and dated (pencil) on verso, blindstamp in the margin lower right

The famous photograph is considered the most famous portrait of the designer Coco Chanel and shows her at the age of 54 in an elegant, stylish pose that emphasizes her connection to luxury and fashion. She reclines on a daybed in the style of an 18th century King Louis XVI chaise longue, surrounded by decorative elements that reflect her artistic personality and influence on 20th century aesthetics. She wears a black bow hair ornament, several pearl necklaces and appears to be holding a cigarette, conveying a mixture of elegance and self-confidence.
The picture was taken during a photo session for the fashion magazine Vogue. Horst refused to charge Chanel for the prints, so she gave him pieces of furniture from her own collection, which emphasized their friendly relationship. The photo is one of Horst's iconic works, which impress with their sophisticated lighting and composition and capture the glamor of the time. Chanel herself described it as one of her favorite portraits and also gave it as a gift. It was also given to the influential fashion publicist and Vogue contributor Bettina McNulty in 1954¹. This certainly underlines the special status of the photograph in Chanel's life and career.
(Christoph Fuchs, 2024)

Notes

1
see a note on the back of the photograph owned by Bettina McNulty, which was auctioned by Sotheby's in 2018, online (retrieved 18.11.2024).